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watch: Martina Etti of NOMOS on The Ace List

Got an hour to spare? In this episode of The Ace List, Ace Jeweler‘s Alon Ben Joseph talks with Martina Etti, who is head of international sales at NOMOS Glashuette. The two discuss a wide range of topics, from the history of Deutscher Werkbund and watchmaking in Glashuette to the latest Brinker’s limited edition Club. Highly recommended!

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watchworks haarlem x nomos club 701 ‘the frunch’

My beloved NOMOS Club 701 – now with a custom dial by WatchWorks Haarlem.

My friend Farid of WatchWorks Haarlem is not only a prolific vintage watch specialist, but also an accomplished artist. Farid has a contemporary style deeply influenced by street art and graffiti culture, and a particularly keen eye for lettering. Anyway, a couple of months ago he showed me a Seiko 5 dial he’d been experimenting on, custom painting it in a style best described as a mix of Jackson Pollock and @TheDialArtist. I was captivated. My mind started racing. And not long after, my trusty NOMOS Club 701 was on its way to Haarlem. Today WatchWorks Haarlem and myself are proud to introduce you to the result. Please welcome the WatchWorks Haarlem x minimatikal NOMOS Club 701. What should we call it? Tutti Frutti. Painter’s Pallet. Or Disco Dip?!

Wait – as an homage to Farid’s graffiti-infused past we’ll go with The Frunch.

‘Frunch’. It was Joker of the famous Amsterdam graffiti crew USA who came up with the term Frunch in 1985. A name he gave to an abstract form of graffiti. Graffiti is characterized by letters, it is the essence. But also in the cradle of the subculture New York city there were writers in the early eighties such as Futura2000 and Jonone who subordinate the letters focus on abstraction. Characterized by spray mist, paint splashes, drippings and diffuse use of color. The perfect inspiration for the design of a modern watch dial.

Dutch Graffiti Library

But before we digress, let’s take a look at a few behind-the-scenes pictures:

So what’s the process of doing a custom dial such as this like? First the watch is carefully disassembled. The dial and movement are taken out of the case and the hands removed, before the dial can come off. A word of caution: this is all best left to a watchmaker, and preferably one with access to spare parts in case of accidental damage or parts that need replacing. Once the dial is loose, the canvas is ready for Farid to work his magic. The dots are applied by hand using a hand-cut tool, one by one, using top-secret paint in a variety of colors. Now all that’s left is a bit of time for the paint to dry, and reassembly can commence.

Please contact WatchWorks Haarlem for inquiries.

Photo’s by @JeroenSV of Van Santen & Vink Photographers / behind the scenes by WatchWorks Haarlem.

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press release: NOMOS Ludwig Enamel White

Gifts with a present on top

Gifts are always important, but even more so in a year like this one, where good times are harder to come by. Two classic watches from NOMOS Glashütte have been beautifully adapted and are available for a highly attractive price—and each comes with a present on top: glossy enamel-white dials.

GLASHÜTTE, NOVEMBER 2020. Christmas is almost here again, and this year there are two special gifts from the watchmaking company NOMOS Glashütte to look forward to—namely two new versions of the classic Ludwig: one larger and highly elegant (Ludwig 38 enamel white at 38 millimeters in diameter), the other equally beautiful in a smaller size (Ludwig 33 duo enamel white at 33 millimeter in diameter). Both watches feature Roman numerals, fine indexes, and railroad minute markers—also known in French as chemin de fer. A slender pocket watch-style case is the perfect finishing touch, since Ludwig by NOMOS is a timepiece for traditionalists. Just like the Glashütte watchmakers who began honing their craft in the small town in Saxony, eastern Germany 175 years ago.

These may be atypical design elements for NOMOS Glashütte, yet they serve to make these models all the more classic. To mark the anniversary, both timepieces come with glossy enamel-white dials reminiscent of early pocket watches. Thanks to modern technology they are robust and made to last, and as such they are especially beautiful. The hands are tempered blue. Both models are powered by Alpha—the caliber that ticks in more watches from NOMOS Glashütte than any other. Three-quarter plate, tempered blue screws, and Glashütte ribbing are all beautifully on show through the sapphire crystal glass. The smaller, women’s version is a two-hand model and therefore belongs to the “duo” series, since it tells time in minutes and hours only.

To make these watches an even more attractive gift for someone special, NOMOS Glashütte has considered their prices carefully: The exquisite enamel-white dial, itself a tribute to the 175th anniversary of Glashütte watchmaking, can be thought of as a Christmas gift from the company—as the watches do not cost more than the corresponding standard versions.

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press release: NOMOS Lambda in steel

Perfect for every day

NOMOS Glashütte is celebrating 175 years of watchmaking history with haute horlogerie in stainless steel. Lambda enamel white, black, and blue are limited edition—and works of watchmaking art

GLASHÜTTE, OCTOBER 2020. A new stainless steel case, a new size, new dials in enamel white, black, and blue, and regulated according to chronometer standards: In short, that’s what makes these three new timepieces celebrating 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking special. Each colorway is limited to 175 pieces, and each individual watch is crafted using the traditional techniques of this historic town.

The enamel gloss of the dials offers an unusual optical depth; an effect enhanced by the curve of the dial and sapphire crystal glass. The highly-polished steel, rarely found in fine watchmaking, makes these watches suitable for everyday wear. The name Lambda stands for “intrinsic values” in mathematics—in other words, for a value that remains constant.

Lambda features a complication: the power reserve indicator. It sweeps an arc across the dial and tracks 84 hours, or three-and-a-half days, accurate to the hour. The four needle-thin hands give this watch model a graceful elegance—with fine features reminiscent of a kinetic sculpture.

The polished case of the watch frames the dial with a slender bezel, while the transition from the side to the back of the case is a radiodrome; that is, a curve with a shrinking radius. The lugs reflect the curved form of the case as well.

The mechanical movement is also something special. Lambda is powered by DUW 1001, and is the first caliber to bear the title “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte.” A large, slender caliber with twin mainspring barrels, 29 jewels within ensure flawless functioning—with six of them in hand-polished screwed chatons, reflecting traditional watchmaking. All edges are also polished by hand, with black polishing on individual steel parts.

The fine sunburst polishing on the three-quarter plate is eye-catchingly beautiful: a polish that is only found in NOMOS timepieces, and has become a part of traditional Glashütte watchmaking since Lambda. By contrast, the regulatory system of screw balance and swan neck fine adjustment in this model has its roots in history. The spring of the swan neck fine adjustment is positioned on top of the balance cock. This reads “Lovingly produced in Glashütte” in German—a message hand-engraved by a highly skilled watchmaker. And another example of the town’s rich heritage.

NOMOS Glashütte upholds traditions while representing a modern take on watchmaking. Alongside the iconic German timepiece Tangente, NOMOS Glashütte also crafts haute horlogerie models like Lambda. And regardless of which model it is for—every caliber is handcrafted by NOMOS watchmakers in Glashütte.