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editorial: a whirlwind trip to Glashuette with MINIMATIKAL! DAY 2

Day two- we headed to Glashuette. We drove through rolling hills from Dresden to Glashuette. There were colorful buildings dotted along the way. Upon arrival in Glashuette, my initial reaction was how cute and quaint the village is. It is quiet yet very charming with pastel colored buildings.

Missed our report on Day 1? Click here!

 

 

We pulled into the main building from NOMOS, which was formally the Glashuette train station. The building was a mix of old and new, with a big glass box on the end which they use as their meeting room. The concept behind the glass cube is that they wanted it to be transparent, exactly like their watchmaking. The train station use to house the machinery for the base plates of their movements, until they relocated into an upgraded production facility down the road.

 

 

In August of 2017, they moved into their new facility. The unobtrusive building is beautifully designed and self sufficient. We were able to see the CNC machines at work drilling holes for where the watch making parts will be placed into. The energy produced from the machines is used to also heat the facility for the majority of the year. In 2015, NOMOS was awarded the Green Product Award for the Metro.

 

 

After our tour of the first production facility, we headed up to the NOMOS’ chronometrie building, where they start to assemble the parts once the base plates and findings are ready. We met with the head movement designer, Theodor Prenzel. He developed the DUW3001 movement for over 1.5 million minutes, and presented the beautiful, thin movement in detailed explanation to us. The joy of this movement is NOMOS’ own swing system, which is the heartbeat of the watch. NOMOS producing their own swing system, broke them away from the rest of the watchmaking industry, making them completely independent. This was quite a feat. NOMOS strives to do everything in house; there are big companies that can produce the escapement for mechanical timepieces, but NOMOS prides themselves in being able to produce their own. NOMOS watches are accessible, bringing them back to the ethos of the Deutsche werkbund- giving quality products to the public at an affordable price. The goal is to eventually have all NOMOS movements fitted with their own in-house swing system.

 

 

The DUW3001 measures in at only 3.2mm, while NOMOS’ first in-house self-winding movement Epsilon is 0.9mm thicker. Prenzel explained they worked to achieve a thinner, completely in-house automatic movement by rethinking the architecture of a movement, which is traditionally built-up in a stacked construction with relatively few parts per layer. With the DUW3001 nearly all parts are inserted between the base and the three-quarter plate, in a reduced number of layers. Though self-winding movements that are slimmer exist, none are produced on the scale of the DUW3001, and even fewer are as accurate, efficient and robust. All movements from NOMOS, including the Alpha and Epsilon, go through a number of testing periods in six positions with three to five resting days in between to let the watch run, before it is approved and assembled in a case. A more detailed article on the in’s and outs of the DUW3001 is coming soon.

 

 

The visit to NOMOS was a confirmation of all the reasons why we loved the brand in the first place. The design offices were humble yet cool, the watchmaking facilities were clean, transparent with a pop of color which screamed NOMOS, and the people were nice, honest and proud of the work they do to make the watches beautiful, timeless and high quality. Thank you, NOMOS Glashuette, for having us!

 

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Another iF Design Award for NOMOS!

Nomos just won another iF Design Award this year, honoring the design of the Metro. Each year, iF International Forum Design GmbH organizes one of the world’s most celebrated design competitions: the iF Design Award. With over 5,000 submissions from 70 countries every year, the competition became a symbol of design excellence and Nomos can now add a prestigious 7th Award to their collection.

About the International Forum Design

The iF has been honoring outstanding achievements in design for over 60 years and is one of the oldest and most respected prizes in the industry.
In 1953, to overcome the bad effects of World War II, a group of industry representatives met with the Hannover Trade Fair company. Their aim was to draw attention to particularly well-designed industrial products. They wanted to communicate the importance of design and all it can achieve: for users, for brands and for societies.

Since 1953, iF is following six core principles:
– To identify, support and promote good design
– To raise awareness of design among the public and the role it plays in our lives
– To help companies integrate design into their long-term strategies
– To safeguard the role of professional designer and boost awareness for this job profile
– To effect social change through design
– To support talented young people and create a public platform for young designers

The red iF logo became afterwards a symbol of design excellence and great achievement for the brands and designers. The iF main project is the organization of their two competitions :
– The iF Design Award for professionals.
– The iF Design Talent Award for students, a free competition to support young designers.

iF Design Award Nomos Metro Mark Braun Minimatikal

The iF Design Award competition

The iF Design award enables professionals from all over the world to compete in 7 different disciplines :
1. Product
2. Packaging
3. Communication
4. Interior Architecture
5. Professional Concept
6. Service Design / UX
7. Architecture

Within every discipline can be found different categories. As for instance, 19 different categories are under “Product” including Watches & Jewelry.
Concerning the Jury and evaluation criteria, about 60 design-experts from over 20 countries evaluate according to 5 established criteria the award winners: Innovation and Elaboration, Functionality, Aesthetics, Responsibility and Positioning.

On 9 March 2018, the iF Design Award night was held at BMW Welt in Munich and the 75 best entries were rewarded with the iF gold award. 2,000 guests from 41 countries were there to celebrate the winners.
Regarding the benefits of the award winners, they can use the red iF label for as long as their award-winning product is on the market. They will also be featured in the iF World Design guide, on the iF design app and the award-winning design will be showcased in the iF design exhibition in Hamburg in March, June and October.

 

The Metro neomatik 39 silvercut design: 7th Award for Nomos!

NOMOS Glashütte has been honored once again for their watch design : an iF Design Award for the seventh time in succession for Metro neomatik 39 silvercut.
The expert jury selected this year the bestselling NOMOS timepiece, which is equipped with the proprietary automatic movement DUW 3001.

iF Design Award Nomos Metro Mark Braun MinimatikalIt’s also the celebration of the German designer Mark Braun, very proud of his achievement: “The tips of the hands resemble the Empire State Building in New York; the diamond knurling on the crown is a tribute to the watchmaking tools from Glashütte. The sapphire crystal glass is slightly curved, while the dial—brushed horizontally with an elegant, silver-gray finish—features fine detailing. Thanks to the in-house-built, automatic caliber DUW 3001, this timepiece is typically NOMOS: ultra thin and highly precise. ”.

Mark Braun is not a watch designer, he was noticed by the creative head of Nomos after having designing a collection of whisky bottles. Since then, the designer works closely with the brand on different projects in his Berlin-based studio.

iF Design Award Nomos Metro Mark Braun Minimatikal

NOMOS watches have received over 140 awards for design and quality, another one can be added on their list, proving once again their distinctive and successful approach on luxury timepieces.

Among the award- winning NOMOS watches: Tangente neomatik midnight blue won the famed prize last year; and before it, Minimatik in 2016. In the preceding years Metro (2015), Ahoi (2014), Tangomat GMT Plus (2013) and Zürich (2012) have been awarded the prize as well.

Nomos’ Awards wall
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editorial: a whirlwind trip to Berlinerblau with MINIMATIKAL! DAY 1

Over the last two days, we were privileged to live and breathe all things NOMOS. Our visit to the Berlinerblau design offices in Berlin, and a grand tour of the NOMOS watch making facilities in Glashuette is a trip for the books.

 

 

Our first steps on the streets of Berlin were along the Bundesstrasse. We headed to the Brandenburg Gate to take in a deep breath of Berlin culture straight away. It was truly amazing to be able to appreciate NOMOS watches in their birthplace of design, the city center of Berlin. While all watches are produced in Glashuette, the design team is based in this city. Berlinerblau was formally a design agency that NOMOS worked with on the design of their watches, but they have acquired the studio and they now do all of the design in-house.

 

 

Berlinerblau is located in the Kreuzberg neighborhood in Berlin. An up and coming area in Berlin with graffiti clad, ornate, warehouse-like buildings. The neighborhood is full of galleries and nightlife, students, artists, creatives and hippies. Berlinerblau is located on the Landwehr Canal. You enter the offices through a courtyard and go up a few flights of stairs. The office has high ceilings and huge windows flooding the space with light. The quirky furnishings are quintessential NOMOS.

 

 

Thomas Hohne is one of the head designers at NOMOS Berlinerblau, and was the mastermind behind the beloved Ahoi. We were able to meet with him in a cool meeting room with big windows, looking out over the courtyard with pastel colored building across the way. The space was stimulating and well, very NOMOS. Naturally, Thomas was wearing the Ahoi in 40mm. He explained to us that he thought at first the size was slightly too big for his slender wrists. It took a little getting use to but after a while, he actually preferred the larger Ahoi to the 36mm option in the end. Even for Thomas, it can take some time to decide what size works best for your wrist.

When NOMOS decided to re-introduce a more ‘sporty’ watch into the collection after the discontinuation of the Tangente Sport, they needed a design that would fit in with the four core collections- the Tangente, Tetra, Ludwig and Orion. The Ahoi is not a dive watch; rather the purpose of the watch is to have a model that can withstand water and water sports, yet also be worn to the office with a suit. There is no rotating bezel, yet the crown protector and screw in crown give it both a rugged appeal and ensure that water stays out of the case for a 200 meter water resistance. Since 2016, the latter is highlighted by a little whale named Herbert engraved on the case back.

 

 

It was clear during the meeting that the watches NOMOS was most excited about were those in the new ‘At Work’ series. The walls were adorned with lifestyle photos of the watches being worn at work, as well as inspiration behind the Silvercut dials and accents. The design team wanted to produce more masculine watches, as the champagne series ended up having a more feminine feel. They showed us a millimeter gauge, an exacto blade, and watch making screw drivers. These are tools that one uses when they’re at work, and they set the mood for this new series. The 39mm size of this collection was really to appeal to career oriented [wo]men, who want to wear a bigger watch. The inspiration of the lines on the dial came from early German racing cars, which featured unpainted aluminum body parts to save weight – though that could be just a myth. NOMOS decided to make the lines of the dial horizontal rather than vertical, to simulate the the speed of those Silberpfeil cars.

 

 

The red accents on the At Work series were inspired by brake lights, as well as power lights on vintage aluminum radios. The red seconds hands on the At Work series are a darker red than the regular ‘NOMOS red’ the designers tend to use. Notably, the Tangente and Tetra are the only two Silvercut models that feature blued steel hands. These two models are staying true to the original Tangente and Tetra. There is always some how a mix of old and new to blend the new pieces into the collection. The seconds subdials feature a slightly more subdued circular pattern in the middle. The softer texture gives the Silvercut models almost a starburst effect, like that of the volume knobs on the vintage aluminum radios.

 

 

A highlight of the visit to Berlinerblau, was discovering a drawer filled with prototypes of dials. We felt like kids in a candy store. They had produced dials in almost every color imaginable; a purple dial with rose gold markers. Probably the most eye catching, were the prototypes for the Lux in black with white horizontal and vertical stripes.

 

 

There were even pink and baby blue Gingham printed dials. Among all these prototypes we discovered quite a few that eventually made it into production as limited edition pieces, like the now very sough-after Toki of 2005 with its red subdial and Japanese hour markers and the Little Red Dot Weltzeit models made for Singapore. Of course the limited edition Orion ‘100 Years De Stijl’ was displayed loud and proud, which really made us feel part of the NOMOS family.

 

 

Once our tour of Berlinerblau concluded, we jumped on the Autobahn and headed to Dresden. The capital of the Eastern German state of Saxony, Dresden is a historic city with classical and ornate architecture. We were immediately impressed by the stunning classical architecture in Dresden. Walking across the bridge going over the Elbe river, we had a spectacular view of the Dresden skyline. Click here for DAY 2- the Glashuette chapter.

 

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Interview Felix Scholz

A coffee and small (watch)talk with Felix Scholz

Felix Scholz interview Nomos Minimatikal

Despite of his German sounding name and good level in French, Felix Scholz was born and raised in Australia. The Australian watchfreak has been writing about watches for over nine years, having written for Hodinkee and Revolution before becoming the editor of Time+Tide, a watch media group in Australia.

I met Felix for the first time in Geneva during the SIHH two years ago and worked with him as an intern at Time+Tide’s headquarters, in the most liveable city, Melbourne.
Felix is mostly interested in what draws people to watches, and how people express their style through their wrists. It was also easy to notice that Felix has a great interest in Nomos and we were very curious about his personal opinion on the German brand. So now, let’s talk about watches!

How did you get to know about Nomos?

I guess I’ve been paying attention to Nomos since about 2006, 2007? I found out about them quite early on in my own ‘watch journey’. When I started paying attention to watches I was really into a lot of smaller, more affordable German brands. To my mind these makers offered something a bit different to the Swiss, and were quite good value. Flieger-style watches were quite popular then, so first seeing the clear, clean lines of Nomos really made an impression. The more I learned, the more impressed I was!

Nomos in 3 words?

There’s two words I’m going to avoid — the ‘m’ word and the ‘b’ word. Minimal and Bauhaus. Just because they’re over-used and Nomos isn’t *really* Bauhaus. So. Three words. Clean, self-assured and playful.

What is your favorite Nomos watch and why?

Ah, it’s like picking your favourite movie or book — impossible! Having said that, I have a soft spot for the classic Clubs (see below). I really like the boldness of the Lux, the classicism of the Orion (doesn’t work on my wrist though, sadly), and the Ahoi — such an original take on a sports/dive watch.

Are you owning a Nomos watch? If so, which one(s) and what do you like about it/them?

I do own a Nomos! Only one, a Club Automat. I’m fond of this watch for a few reasons — but mostly because it arrived in the post the day before my son was born. For that reason it’s one of the few that I would never sell. Sentimental reasons aside, I like this version because I find the auto a bit more practical than a manual wind, and the larger size works well for me too. Design-wise it’s clean and dressy, but not overly formal.. I like the 100m of water resistance, oh and the bright orange highlights. I guess I like everything about it really.

Nomos Club watch Felix Scholz Minimatikal

Which Nomos watch would you like to acquire in the future and why?

Another tricky question! I go through phases, but the one I settle on the most is the Ahoi. It suits my lifestyle, and I like the new fabric straps. And while there’s a few options I think I’d go for thew new neomatik — that movement is such an impressive achievement. Perhaps the Atlantik dial, to provide contrast to the Club.

What do you expect from Nomos at Baselworld this year and what are you hoping for?

Well, I did not see the Club re-vamp coming last year — that was a real surprise for me, as was the super bold use of colour. they haven’t done too much with their core, collection recently, so maybe some new dials and movement upgrades there? I would like to see a new small complication? A new, simpler dual time would be super cool.

May all your wishes come true! The countdown until Baselworld 2018 has just started and everyone is impatient and excited to see what Nomos will unveil this year.
Minimatikal will be on the alert, stay tuned..! 

Felix Scholz Nomos Club Minimatikal
Felix’s Club Automat
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NOMOS accepted into the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie!

CONGRATS!

Good news for Nomos Glashütte this month:  have been accepted into the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) – and the timepieces of the German brand are now also available in Switzerland through prestigious retailer Bucherer.

What is the FHH?

The FHH was created in 2005 and founded by three partners: the Richemont Group, Audemars Piguet and Girard Perregaux. They decided to create a foundation to promote the values of Fine Watchmaking worldwide. There are now five permanent members, including a President, who set guidelines for the Cultural Council composed of 42 members working in different areas of expertise.

The FHH has four core missions:

  • Inform: Informing the public about fine watchmaking with exhibitions, publications, and on-line presence.
  • Train: Training watch professionals, not only the sales people, but also the artisans mastering the crafts that define Haute Horlogerie by delivering a full program of training, from beginner to expert level.
  • Recognize: Acting as a reference for the profession particularly with the help of the White Paper.
  • Organize: The FHH is the organizer of the renowned Salon de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), which takes place in Geneva every year, Waches & Wonders in Miami, Dubai Watch Week and more. All major events in the watchmaking industry.

Nomos just has been accepted into the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie, joining the most prestigious names in watchmaking.

Fabienne Lupo, Chairwomen of the FHH minimatikal White Paper Nomos
Fabienne Lupo, Chairwomen of the FHH – photo credit: lepoint.fr

The WHITE PAPER: What does fine watchmaking mean exactly?

At the creation of the FHH, a Manifesto was produced, detailing the principles of Fine Watchmaking. But it wasn’t as precise as it needed to be. In 2013, the FHH decided to neatly define Fine Watchmaking and give objective evaluation criteria for the brands. It took three years and the help of 46 international independent experts to finish this reference manual. To define the perimeter of Fine Watchmaking, the brands are selected according to 7 areas of expertise:

  • R&D, production and technical expertise
  • Style, design and artistic expertise
  • History and DNA
  • Distribution and after-sales service
  • Connoisseurs and collectors
  • Brand image and communication
  • Training

The brands are then classified into 4 fundamental Fine Watchmaking segments :

Historic Maisons: Watchmaking companies that perpetuate a tradition and a heritage.

Contemporary Brands: Brands which belong to the present day and are characteristic of modern times.

Luxury Brands: Multi-product luxury brands which invest in the art of technical and/or precious Fine Watchmaking with creativity, innovation and excellence.

Artisan-Creators: Independent watchmakers/creators who draw on specific expertise and who generally carry out the manufacturing, sale and after-sales service of their products.

For the first edition of the White Paper in 2016, 86 brands were evaluated and 64 entered the precious Perimeter of Fine Watchmaking. This evaluation will be repeated every 2 to 3 years to stay current with developments in the industry.

Regarding the evaluation method,: brands with a final score of above 6/10 are considered part of Fine Watchmaking (this practice lies on an objective evaluation per area of expertise, with a score from 1 to 10. In addition, an individual general appreciation with a subjective evaluation of the brand from 1 to 10). -> more info

In a nutshell, the White Paper aims to be a reference for the future and maintain the level of excellence in Fine Watchmaking by evaluating the coherence between what a brand says and what it does.

NOMOS AND THE FHH

Back in 2016, after the first publication of the White Paper, we were very surprised that Nomos wasn’t accepted in the perimeter of Fine Watchmaking. After a private talk with a permanent member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, we found out that the brand had a great final score and was very close to be accepted. After a good talk about the evaluation method of the reference manual, the conversation had to start again one year later, when Nomos has finally been accepted into the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie as a perimeter brand (meaning not a sponsoring partner).

What caused this revaluation remains between NOMOS and the FHH;  the results are strictly confidential and not published or shared with third parties. We do however know that a delegation visited Glashütte in November of 2017 and was quite pleased with what they saw. “The spirit, the simplicity and the watches” convinced them all, and Nomos is now a well-deserved member of the perimeter of Haute Horlogerie under the category Contemporary Brands. Biggest congratulations from Team Minimatikal!

The launch in Switzerland with Bucherer

As good news never come alone, Nomos just revealed that their timepieces are now available with Bucherer Jewellers in Switzerland. Following Bucherer’s locations in Germany, Bucherer Switzerland is now launching the innovative brand in Jelmoli on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse.

Uwe Ahrendt Nomos CEO minimatikal white paper

Uwe Ahrendt is delighted: “It is a real recognition of our brand, since Switzerland is considered to be watchmaking’s ‘large canton’.”

Bucherer is a renowned watch and jewellery store that was founded in 1888 by Carl-Friedrich Bucherer in Luzerne, Switzerland. 16 Bucherer stores are located across Switzerland. A great opportunity for the German brand that only had 6 official retailers in Switzerland before this announcement.