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Hands-on: Nomos Zürich Weltzeit

“Travel the world with the push of a button”

I had the chance to wear the Nomos Zurich Weltzeit for a few weeks and I have to say that it was a pretty interesting experience.

The Nomos Zürich Weltzeit was released in 2014 and comes in two different color versions. One with a white silver-plated dial and the second with a midnight blue dial. The hands are faceted and rhodium-plated. The name of the watch is a tribute to the city where the designer of the watch Hannes Wettstein was living and working.

At first glance I thought that it would be way too big for me but once I got in on my wrist, I quite liked the oversized look!

The first noticeable thing while looking at this watch is obviously the different cities that lay on the dial which makes you instantly travel in less than one second.

A button enables you to travel the different time zones very quickly just by pushing it. I have to admit that it provides a very satisfying feeling and makes the watch very playful.

Nomos Zürich Weltzeit world time hands-on minimatikal

In terms of caliber, The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit has the brand’s most complicated movement. This automatic caliber is equipped with a world time and 24-hour display. As well as a proprietary escapement, the NOMOS swing system. We can read the time both at home and in 23 other time zones (but not at the same time!).

Indeed, the Zürich Weltzeit is not a true worldtimer because it can display only two different time zones at the same time. To have an idea of what is a real World Time watch, have a look at the Patek Philippe 5230G World time.

Next to the « home symbol » you can set your home time thanks to the disc next to it, while the hands can be set to your current time zone or any time zone you want to check.

Nomos Zürich Weltzeit world time hands-on minimatikal

The Zürich Weltzeit’s case is very elaborate and add sophistication to the watch. No less than 10 separate pieces composed the case, Nomos even compares this case as a set diamond. A very welcome and important detail that distinguishes the Weltzeit to the others Nomos models that can be sometimes a bit stead for some people.

Nomos Zürich Weltzeit world time hands-on minimatikal

What do I think about his watch?

Two important things have to be said about this watch. Its lug-to-lug distance is around 48mm, which makes it honestly difficult for a small lady’s wrist to wear it if you are not crazy about oversized watches.

Another thing is that the home time displayed on the disc is very small and can be hard to read. 50+, get your glasses on.

But overall, The Zürich Weltzeit is a true good-looking watch. It gives you a travel style without any pretention. Thanks to its versatile design, it’s very easy to wear it with casual clothes as well as an elegant suit.

Of course the watch is really handy if you often travel the world or need to have the time of a specific time zone. In Nomos’ collection, the Zürich Weltzeit is truly the watch of the world.

More details : Ref. 805

CASE

stainless steel, tripartite
sapphire crystal glass back

GLASS

domed sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating

WINDING

automatic

DIMENSIONS

diameter 39.9 mm
height 10.85 mm
weight 74 g

WATER RESISTANCE

3 atm (splash-proof)

DIAL

galvanized, white silver-plated, with world time and 24-hour indicator

HANDS

rhodium-plated, faceted

STRAP

Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black
lug width 20mm

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Hands-on: NOMOS Tangente Neomatik 41 Update

Tangente, updated.

 

For Baselworld 2018, Nomos unveiled their Neomatik classics: Orion, Tangente and Ludwig, updated.

Each of them features now a new unique tailor-made date display. This playful innovation showcases the watchmaking skills of Nomos Glashütte and we couldn’t resist putting our hands on the intriguing Tangente Neomatik Update. In this post we will briefly go over the basics of this watch!

 Tangente Neomatik Update Minimatikal hands on

THE CASE

The bipartite stainless steel case has a diameter of 40.5 mm, is 7.9 mm high and weighs 58 g. We measured the lug-to-lug distance: +/- 48.2mm. It features a sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating. Regarding the water resistance, the watch is suitable for showering (5 ATM).

THE DIAL

The dial is galvanized and white silver-plated with a playful Date ring. Two red dots highlights today’s date. The hands are oxidized black.

THE MOVEMENT

This automatic watch features Nomos’ in-house built caliber : DUW 6101. The movement diameter is 15 ½ lines (35.2mm) with a height of 3.6mm. The power reserve is up to 42 hours. It is The first neomatik caliber with a date mechanism. Rob Nudds gave us all the ins and outs of this movement in a guest post, which you’ll find right here.

Tangente Neomatik Update Minimatikal hands on

THE STRAP

The watch comes with a Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black strap with a lug width of 20mm. It is fitted with their winged buckle in 18mm. The folding clasp is optional – but available HERE.

Tangente Neomatik Update Minimatikal hands on

What do I think about this watch?

The circular date is very original and add a fun twist to the minimalist design of the Tangente. The touch of red is also very welcome on such a refined and neutral dial.

However, the 40.5mm diameter of the watch makes it difficult for a women to wear it. Even if oversized watches can look amazing on female wrists, I think this one is just not flattering [sorry ladies]. The lines are just too hard, and the lugs too long. It looked amazing on Dale’s wrist though; here it sat much more naturally and can be combined with many outfits.

Such a man’s world 😉

 

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hands-on: NOMOS Ludwig Neomatik Champagner 283

NOMOS is known for their modern and playful mechanical watches at an accessible price point. What I love about Nomos, is that they’re not afraid to make daring design choices that are surprising, playful and fun. When I first saw the champagne collection from NOMOS, it was love at first sight. Having the opportunity to wear any watch from the champagne collection was an honor, but a tough decision. Admittedly, the Ludwig was probably the least likely choice for me, but it was the model I selected in the end. Here’s why…

 

Continue reading hands-on: NOMOS Ludwig Neomatik Champagner 283

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hands-on: NOMOS Club Neomatik Siren Red 743

What watch would you choose if NOMOS offered to lend you one, carte blanche?

My #1 choice was the Club Neomatik Signalrot, introduced at BaselWorld 2017, and one of the latest, greatest and most colorful Club models yet.

Background

My favorite NOMOS is the Club. More specifically it’s the Club 701, which is one of their most affordable watches. I’ve worn mine almost non-stop ever since I acquired it, and I am not about to stop. In fact I love it so much that I would seriously entertain the idea of adding another Club to the stable. So, when NOMOS asked me which watch I’d like to wear for a Minimatikal review, I instantly knew the first one had to be the Club Neomatik Signalrot – a self-winding Club with a powerful red dial. How would this funky upper class Club compare to my simple 701, and would that funky red dial feel after a few days?

The Basics

the size and dimensions of the nomos club neomatik watch

The Club Neomatik was introduced at BaselWorld 2017. It features a stainless steel case of 37mm excluding crown, which is rated water resistant up to 20 atmosphere of pressure. It is fitted with sapphire crystal glasses on both front and back, the latter allowing for a view of the in-house, self-winding caliber DUW 3001. I measured the lug to lug to be about 47.2mm, and it takes 18mm straps.

The Club Neomatik is not the most expensive Club model – that’d be the Automatic Date. However considering it is powered by NOMOS’ latest and thinnest self-winding movement, it is arguably the most high-end model of the range in terms of specifications. Finally, at the moment of writing it is available with a choice of four dials; silver, dark blue or ‘Atlantik’, light blue or ‘Signalblau’, and finally red or ‘Signalrot’.

nomos club neomatik - the 2017 dial variations

Club Neomatik versus Club Alpha

nomos club 701 with alpha movement versus nomos club neomatik

When I first took the Club Signalrot out of its packaging and strapped it on, it instantly felt at home. Of course the dimensions are very similar to my Club 701; 37 versus 36 mm diameter, 48.4 versus 47.2 mm lug-to-lug, and finally 9.2mm versus 8.1 mm in height. They’re all rather modest increases. I found the difference in height to the most noticeable – which is probably partly caused by the different shape and feel of the sapphire crystal back compared to the stainless steel one found on my own.

nomos club neomatik versus alpha

The finish of the case seems to be one or two notches above the simpler Club – or is it just difference in price that’s playing tricks with my mind? The transition between the case body and the lugs seems more articulate on the Neomatik , with sharper separations between the two on both the side as well as on the top.

The difference in movements is mainly a matter of taste. I’m a fan of the simple Alpha movement and I enjoy the ritual of winding it. However, the DUW3001 ‘Neomatik’ is a beautiful movement and a perfect representation of the direction NOMOS’ is heading in. It does come at a price though; when both have a sapphire crystal back the difference is almost 100%, and it’s even greater when compared to my 701.

That Red

So, let’s talk about the dial. In German it’s called Signalrot, but surprisingly it isn’t quite the RAL color of the same name. Also, in real life it appears a bit lighter than it does on the NOMOS stock images, and the grain is not as obvious. It is a warm and vibrant red. According to NOMOS it should remind you of corals and rubber boats. I was mainly thinking summer and sunsets on the beach though – and longing for those every time I looked at it!  The Club is a pretty playful watch to start with and this color really takes it to the next level. At the same time the subtle dimensions of the watch prevent it from being overly loud.

As this was a loaner I didn’t play around with straps but rather wore it on the grayish textile it was supplied with. It’s a good match that enhances the overall summer vibe. I imagine finding a better match would be quite a challenge, as of course the dial color does limited your options. It is a challenge I’d gladly take on though!

Final Thoughts

I love this watch. It’s cheerful yet packs a serious horological punch, and it stands out without being overpowering. It wears much more easily than I expected, and it was every bit as much fun once the novelty wore off. It’s not for everyone, and I wouldn’t recommend it as a first watch – but it makes for a fun addition if you already own a NOMOS (or other watch) in a more traditional color. I’d love to add it to my own little stable, though not without thoroughly inspecting the Signalblau, which I adore too. Last but not least, I think it’d make sense for NOMOS to also offer at least one of these vibrant colors in the more accessibly priced Alpha-powered Clubs.

nomos club neomatik signalrot 743 on the wrist

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hands-on: the NOMOS Tetra Nachtijall

When Nomos lent us several watches to wear, I wanted to go with the most unconventional model. That’s why I chose the Tetra Nachtijall, a small and mysterious watch that I couldn’t wait to discover.

THE TETRA COLLECTION

The Tetra collection is probably the edgiest collection from NOMOS thanks to its square case form. Sometimes square watches simply look and feel better on the wrist. According to Nomos “Tetra is a fine Glashütte timepiece: straightforward, clear, and perhaps rather independent-minded”. The collection is mostly known as the square version of Tangente, but its typography is not identical. The numerals on the Tetra are slightly elongated, and more narrow than on the Tangente.

Within the Tetra family, there are three variations:

– The Tetra Neomatik: extra large (33x33mm), extra thin, with the automatic caliber DUW 3001.
– The Tetra with manual winding: entirely classic available in 27.5×27.5mm or 29.5×29.5mm.
– The Tetra Berlin set: best-known their boldly colored dials.

THE TETRA BERLIN SET

The Tetra Berlin set was released in 2014. Every member of the Berlin set highlights a significant symbol of Berlin and has gold-plated hands. A nice tribute to the German capital, and home to Nomos’ in-house design studio, Berlinerblau.
Four different models are included in the Tetra Berlin Set:

  • The Tetra GOLDELSE, inspired by the golden statue crowning Berlin’s Victory Column.

Tetra Goldelse Nomos Minimatikal

  • The Tetra KLEENE, “little one” in Berliner dialect, with an eye-catching turquoise dial and the hand-wound caliber DUW 4301.

Tetra Kleene Nomos Minimatikal

  • The Tetra CLÄRCHEN, a tribute to the renowned Clärchens Ballhaus (dancing hall) in central Berlin – featuring an audacious billiard green colored dial.

Tetra Claerchen Nomos Minimatikal

  • Last but not least, the intriguing Tetra NACHTIJALL.

Tetra Nachtijall Nomos Minimatikal

THE TETRA NACHTIJALL

In my opinion, the Tetra Nachtijall is the most poetic and mysterious watch of the Berlin set thanks to its deep midnight blue dial. The case size of the watch, a 29.5mm square, flatters small wrists.

However, I disagree with people saying that the watches in the Tetra Berlin set are the most feminine in the Nomos collection. I believe that a “small” square watch can also be a real statement piece for a man. Of course, the watch appears to be quite small comparing to the 40 to 44mm watches many men wear today, but the subtlety of this timepiece can be way more powerful than any other ostentatious, oversized watch. Sometimes, less is more.

Nomos Tetra Nachtijall Minimatikal
Nomos Tetra Nachtijall on Dale’s wrist

It is true that wearing a square watch is quite unusual. The sharpness of the case can be confusing at first. But the Tetra is incredibly thin and lightweight which makes it easy and comfortable to wear. The hands on the watch still move around in a circle; the Tetra functions the same way as a round watch would.The strap is soft and flexible and its neutral color creates a nice contrast with the deep blue dial. The Tetra Nachtijall adds a touch of originality to any outfit with its bold color and interesting form. Moreover, the gold hands and numerals make it easier to mix and match the watch with gold jewelry and accessories.

The Tetra Nachitjall is powered by the hand-wound Alpha movement- Nomos’ oldest caliber and most popular one. A short summary of the technical data: diameter 10½ lines, power reserve circa 43 hours. With stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, Triovis fine adjustment regulator, and 17 jewels.

Tetra Nachtijall Nomos Minimatikal

One might wonder, where did the Tetra Nachtijall get its name? ‘Nachtijall’ translates to Nightingales in English. A Nightingale is a small passerine bird best known for its powerful and beautiful voice. The song of the nightingale has been described as one of the most beautiful sounds in nature, inspiring songs, fairy tales, opera, books, and a great deal of poetry. According to Nomos, there are more nightingales in Berlin than in any other city, as Berlin is on their migratory path.

Scientists from the Freie Universitat in Berlin discovered the mystery behind the nightingale’s beautiful song. Male birds sing complex notes to prove to females that they would be a good father to their children. Nomos has succeeded once again, in creating a seductive timepiece representing a perfect mix of traditional elements and modern design.

DETAILS OF THE WATCH:

REFERENCE 490
CASE stainless steel – bipartite – sapphire crystal glass – sapphire crystal glass back – fixed with four screws
WINDING manual
DIMENSIONS size 29.5 mm x 29.5 mm – height 6.5 mm – weight 36 g
WATER RESISTANCE 3 atm (splash-proof)
DIAL lacquered – blue
HANDS steel – gold-plated
STRAP Velour leather gray – lug width 18 mm
CALIBER Alpha – manual
MOVEMENT HEIGHT 2.6 mm
DIAMETER 10 ½ lines (23.3 mm)
POWER RESERVE up to 43 hours
JEWELS 17

The Tetra NACHTIJALL is available for purchase at www.AceJewelers.com.